Our technicians always follow these tips when installing an electrical sub-panel. The proper equipment must be used and one must take great care to ensure all wires are installed correctly. Once new circuit cables are run into the sub-panel, clamp each cable and route the wires for each circuit around the perimeter.Īs we’ve illustrated, wiring a sub-panel is not a simple task.Connect the ground wire to the ground bus bar. The red/black wires connect to the hot bus bars, while the neutral (white) wire goes to the main neutral terminal. Cut and strip the feeder wires and connect them to the proper terminals.Then route, cut, and strip the red/black wires and connect them to the feeder breaker. ![]() Route neutral and ground wires and connect them to their respective bus bars.Strip enough wire sheathing to attach the wire, then remove a knockout slug and clamp the cable in place.Plan the routes for the ground, neutral, and black and red hot wires.When mounting the sub panel, make sure it’s about 1 foot away from the main service panel and measure how far each wire will need to travel.Nevertheless, here’s the general process of how our licensed electricians handle sub-panel wiring: Any mistakes can prevent the sub-panel from functioning or create a dangerous shock and fire hazard. We’re only breaking down the steps to give you an idea of how the process works. ![]() This stage of installing a sub-panel is not for the typical DIYer. The panel must be mounted to a permanent structure and where equipment cannot impact it. They should be placed in a sheltered, shaded area and at least 12 inches above where snow is likely to accumulate. Outdoor sub-panels are weather-resistant. Mounting must be done so the cover fits flush against the metal box once the drywall is installed. They must be attached to the structure and not mounted to drywall. ![]() Indoor sub-panels are usually mounted between 2 x 4 studs and are not weathertight. Always check the product rating to make sure you’re using the correct wires. For a six-space panel used indoors, a 100-amp wire size is needed, while a two-space outdoor panel can work with a 60, 100, or 200-amp wire. And make sure to use insulated electrical tools to avoid injury. Nonmetallic flexible cables must be used to carry ground wire, while an armored steel cable can be used as a grounded connection. Here are the appropriate sizes/amp ratings:Īlways use copper for a ground wire (and never as a neutral wire). Only 600-volt copper wire should be used. Tools you’ll need for installation include a screwdriver, hammer, voltage tester, flashlight, wire strippers, lineman’s pliers, and long-nose pliers.įor materials, you’ll need the sub-panel, mounting screws, a feeder cable approved for the application, staples or cable clamps, circuit breakers, and an approved feeder breaker. Grounds and neutrals can only be connected to the main panel. There is no main breaker here and the sub-panel must have separate bus bars for neutral and ground wires. The main panel’s feeder breaker works as the main disconnect for the subunit. It’s also beneficial if your existing electrical panel doesn’t have room for new breakers. This component is suited for homes that can’t accommodate tandem circuit breakers, which allow two circuits to be controlled from one slot. However, we’ll explain the basics of sub-panel installation to help you understand what it involves. It’s best to hire an electrical contractor, as this project entails working with wiring and other high-voltage electrical components. ![]() To connect the two panels, you’ll need a thick three-wire cable. I disagree with our assumption of power consumption and view of how little can be ran on a 60 amp service panel.You might need a sub-panel if there aren’t enough circuit breakers in your main electrical service panel. Now with that said, I don't disagree if your running the power run the 100 amp if you can. My only problem to date is the drum sander overloading when I tried to take off to much at a time. I have a 10k and 12k but window units, 20 compact fluorescent bulbs and (20) 4' T-8 fluorescent bulbs, 4 floodlights, a stereo and or Tv, a mini fridge, dust collector, 4 HP ompressor (220v) and any number of power tools from a 3 HP 220 table saw down that can run at one time and the lights don't even dim. 60 amps is 60 on each of two legs so if your talking 110 volts you actually have 120 amps. Really a mini fridge and TV are negligible in amperage draw. 20 amps worth of fluorescent lighting? How many light are we talking. Both those things may draw close to 20 amps on start up only. Your dust collector if its a 2 HP motor may draw lose to 20 amps, the table saw again I doubt it draws 20 amps.
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